Rules

Be carefull – some parts of rules are different form IWC rules – especially the pointing of holds.

The rules for athletes

1. Duties of the organizers of competitors

  • Respect the schedule and be ready in time.
  • Participate in the opening and closing ceremonies.
  • During the race to behave in a spirit of fair play and respect the anti-doping rules.

2. The competition – route preview and other general provisions

Route preview:

  • Helmets are obligatory
  • Climbing is forbidden during route preview
  • Touching the holds or testing the climbing without leaving the ground during the preview is allowed
  • Using the binocular or drawing sketches is permitted

General provisions

  • No mobile phones or cameras are allowed in isolation.
  • Ice axes must be in accordance with UIAA regulations and cannot exceed the size permitted by UIAA IWC.
  • Crampons also must be in accordance with the rules of the UIAA IWC.
  • Heel spikes are forbidden
  • Competitor must wear a helmet.
  • Climbing equipment must comply with safety standards (helmets and harness must conform to UIAA). If you are not sure, ask before the race.
  • The loss of any part of a gear (helmet, crampons and ice axe) during the climbing means the end of climbing
  • It is compulsory to wear the starting number.

3. The competition climbing

  • Starting and finish hold are marked.
  • Competitor have to place both axes to the start hold before the start
  • The start is considered when one ice axe leaves the starting point or a sign to time keeper.
  • Each route has its time deadline, after which the try will be finished and write down the height, the competitor has reached
  • Finish is considered to be reached when all quick draws are clipped (incl. the last one) and both ice axes are in the finish point or on finish hold.
  • Clip the quick draws sequentially! You may clip back as long as you don’t climb back!
  • If the competitor have to go back for the clipping, the attempt will be finished
  • Respect the red lines and boundaries of the structure.
  • Don’t use: the edges of the structure, cracks between plates and /or screw holes.
  • Ice axes may only be used by hands and arms and may not be used on one another.
  • Do not attach ice axes to the harness or to another ice axe!.
  • No swinging with ice axes in dry tooling section (use the holds only), touching the structure and/or holds with hands is allowed (but not the edges of the structure).
  • Touching/using/hitting outside or in the red line:
  • Hitting/kicking with ice axes outside or in the red line: OUT
  • Stepping outside or in the red line: OUT
  • Hitting or touching outside the line with any part of the body in the way that it stops or advances your movement: OUT
  • Touching outside the line with your body/ice axes without using the hold or step: OK

Pointing of the routes

  • The hold is valid when both axes are in the hold or one ice axe is in the hold and the other is in the air. Axe placememnt in the next hold brings +. That means that a competitor should take out the lower tool if it is still in the lower zone or hold to improve his/her position!
  • Qualification is in style FLASH – five routes for men, three routes for women. Proceed to the final 8 men and 5 women.
  • Speed competition: From the qulifikation go to the final 8 fastest mens and 4 fastest womens. In the final round will climb both competitors both routes paralel, winner will go to the next round. A fall during an attempt in final means lost.

4. Results

  • If two competitors are equal in final or semifinal round, the result from previous round (open) determines the relative positions of the two competitors. If they were equal in all previous rounds, they are positioned by the time on the tops in open. If more than one competitor will reach the top in final, the faster time mens better result
  • If the judge is not sure that a competitor has made a mistake, the judge may allow the climber to climb further on the route. In this case, after observing the recorded video, the valid result may become the height that the competitor reached when he/she (de facto) made the mistake.

5. Appeal procedures

  • All official appeals must be written  within 10 minutes after finishing the official results and given to the President of the Jury by the team leader or by the competitor if there is no team leader!
  • The appeal deposit of 500 CZK (20 EUR) must be paid when submitting the official protest.
  • The official protests are considered by the competiton director, the referee and route setter.

Prepared by: Radek Lienerth Date: September 13, 2012

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